My guide to Delhi: SIGHTS AND EXPERIENCES

One thing plenty of people don't give Delhi credit for is the amount there is to do here. Tourists land here, spend a couple of days and hot foot it off to Rajasthan.

However if you do give the city a few more days, these are the things I'd see:

Humayun's Tomb - my favourite sight in Delhi. To fill you in on a little bit of history... 'The tomb of Humayun was built by the orders of Bega Begum (also known as Haji Begum), Humayun's first wife and chief consort, and begun in 1565, nine years after his death, and completed in 1572 AD at a cost of 1.5 million rupees at the time.' That's huge money and it was worth it, this site is beautiful, peaceful and a complete oasis from Delhi madness. Come and enjoy the main attraction but also take the time to see recently restored Isa Khan's Tomb which is just as you walk in to the right.

Lodi Garden - What a beautiful city garden this is - historic tombs, lakes, flowers, young lovers and space! Something rare in these big congested cities. I love taking the kids to Lodi and letting them run around. Of course you have to be careful of the odd Desi dog, cavernous hole or jutting rock but all in all it is a lovely place to spend a spring or autumn afternoon. It just wreaks of history and you get a sense of it everywhere you walk. Also has a good running track - or so I have heard.

Nizamuddin Sufi walk - Nizamuddin Basti is a 12th century village that has slowly been taken over by modern Delhi. Visiting the Basti is like stepping back in time - a combination of tiny laneways, mosques, congestion, food stalls, offerings, flowers, tinsel and goats. It is a predominantly Muslim area and has about 200,000 residents.
I recommend heading in on a Thursday night on a tour - there are a couple of groups I recommend The Hope Project and Little Black Book Delhi. On Thursday night you can visit to be part of the Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin and watch the Qawwalia (enchanting Sufi singers). Qawwalia starts about 9pm but you can do a tour before that and visit some of the mosques and shops and hear some of the fascinating history. The qawwalias are amazing to listen to, it really is something you won't experience anywhere else. After enjoy one of the many fine kebab stores in the area.

Old Delhi - Old Delhi is the Delhi you expect to see when you think about the capital. Busy, congested, dusty, electrical wires everywhere, a complete overload on the senses. Some of the best sites in Old Delhi are the Jama Masjid (walk to the top of the tower), Kinari Bazaar and the Spice Market. I can highly recommend hiring a rickshaw driver to take you on a little tour, it helps you see and do more with your time. Akbar is the guy I use and he is stationed at The Red Fort and his number is 9891 462 125. Akbar has great English and does a nice tour.

Gurdwara Bangla Sahib - I have done a post on this sight previously so I will refer you back to that.
It is still one of my favourite places. This is one of the most spiritual places I have been and gives you an appreciation of how many religions co-exist in this country - especially after a trip to Old Delhi.

Mehrauli Park / Qutub Minar - About 40 minutes from central Delhi is the Mehrauli Archaeological Gardens and the Qutub Minar. Beautifully preserved and a lovely spot to experience some green space. The Qutub Minar is 72 metre tall iron pillar and was built in from 1192 and completed in 1368. Again a seriously interesting spot to soak up some history about this incredibly old city.

Hauz Khas Village - as well as being a great spot to get a drink and some dinner, HKV has some pretty impressive old structures and a beautiful lake. Take the time to visit if you are there doing some shopping.

Raj Ghat - A quiet spot to reflect on the life of Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi was cremated here and a peaceful spot to appreciate what an influence this man had on the country. His museum is over the road and good for a look as well.

India Gate - A huge monument dedicated to those who died in the First World Wars (1914 - 1921). It is about 42 metres tall and very imposing when you stand under it.

Presidents Palace, Gardens and Changing of the Guard -Again I have written about the Changing of the Guard before - here - it's a nice thing to do on a Saturday morning and is full of pomp and ceremony!
The Presidents Palace is normally closed to the public but for a few weeks in March the gardens are open to the public. If you are in Delhi at this time go and check it out. They are manicured to perfection!

Out of Delhi but a MUST SEE!!!! Of course I am talking about the Taj Mahal. The Taj is breath-taking! You can see as may postcards and pictures of it but it is not like seeing it in the flesh. The symmetry, the history and the serenity. Get there and have a look.

On top of all this there is also plenty of shopping to experience, but this is a separate post to come shortly.
 

My guide to Delhi: FOOD

After four years living and breathing all things Delhi, I thought I would put together a guide for you to get the best bits out of the capital. Whether you are just visiting or going to come and live in Delhi there is a few things you shouldn't miss and will help you have a great time in this city.  Of course there will be things I miss but that's were feedback and suggestions come in. So have a read and let me help you enjoy Delhi and India!

Food!
Indian food is popular the world over. While I have been in Delhi I have access to some amazing Indian food, funnily enough though some of the best Indian I have had is in my own home with my wonderful cook Sheela. I am going to get her to sit down with me and share a couple of recipes before we leave and I'll make sure to share them with you. However, given most of you want have access to my cook, where else should you go for good food in Delhi?

Indian!
Indian Accent is without a doubt is my favourite restaurant in Delhi. The food is innovative, fresh and light. What the chef has managed to do with 'Indian' cuisine is so interesting and makes you want to go back for more. I love the dory fish, the tacos (vege and non-veg) and the spare ribs. Of course there are plenty of other amazing things to choose from. I never go the degustation as I like to have control over what I eat, but the option is there if you like it.

Varq is located in the Taj Mansingh hotel and it does lovely Indian food. Again a bit different and not stodgy. A lovely restaurant vibe adds to it's pleasures. Have a drink in Rick's before you head down for food! 5 star prices (+ taxes) make it expensive but it's a nice treat.

Gunpowder is sadly no longer in Delhi but it is in North Goa so if you are down that way definitely try it. The food is hot, spicy and amazing!!!! Great cocktails to match. Apparently you can order it and get it home delivered in Delhi so look that option up.

Sagar Ratna is a chain but great for a quick South Indian fix. Cheap cheap it can't be beat for a lunch on the run.

Other notable - Bukhara, Dum Phukt or get an invite to someones house!

Of course you can't talk Indian food without talking Old Delhi and street food. I have eaten in Old Delhi a hand full of times and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. However for your first time I would recommend a guide to show you the ropes so you don't put too many feet wrong. Try the Parantha at Parantha Gali, the Pani Poori at one of the many popular stalls and the Indian desserts like kulfi, jalebi and gulub jamun. For a sit down restaurant meal you can't go past Karim's. It has a serious history and the décor, characters and food is a must visit. It isn't far from the Jama Masjid - it's famous so just ask around. For more information on Old Delhi it's worth learning from an expert so check out Pamela Timms book Korma, Kheer and Kismet, it's worth a read.


Other food when you've over indulged in Indian...
Sometimes you just can't have another Indian meal and you need other options, so here you are:
The café scene is coming along nicely in Delhi and I am pleased to say you can grab a great salad or sandwich at a few places around town.

My fave's are Latitude at Good Earth café in Khan Market and Chez Nini in Meherchand Market. Latitude is run by the DIVA group and the salads are super fresh, interesting and tasty. Think quinoa, avocado, olive, pomegranate and roast pumpkin, feta, walnut. They also have the best avocado supply in town. Love their bruschetta!!!
Chez Nini is run by an Indian/Canadian lady and they do a lovely Caesar salad and a to die for Poutine. It is so good. The décor in both these cafes is lovely and you can easily spend a few hours reading a book over a coffee and delicious cake after lunch.

Dinner options are a plenty! So here goes:
Guppy by ai is a Japanese restaurant in Lodi Colony Main Market and it is great. Funky décor, good cocktails and delicious fresh sushi. The pork belly is very naughty but delicious.
Tres is also in Lodi market and does good European food. I have been here a number of times and always happy with what I order. Again the cocktails are great.
Townhall in Khan Market is relatively new on the scene. The sushi chef from the Oberoi has moved to Townhall and is producing some fab creations. All very fresh and on the money. Great spot for lunch or dinner.
Depot 29 in Safdarjung Enclave do a cracking guacamole and a variety of great burgers and tacos to go with your mojito. Live music takes place on the weekends.
Purely for some rooftop action you could head to Amour in ever trendy Haus Khas Village. In the cooler months it is great to grab a pizza and a beer while looking down on one of the coolest markets in Delhi. Spice Route is a interior design spectacle located in The Imperial Hotel. It's menu comes from along the spice route (hence the name), so you can enjoy Thai, Indian, Malaysian etc... The food is good, the room is amazing and you have to order the red wine just to drink out of the glasses! In the cooler months sit in the courtyard, you can pretend you're in Thailand.

Brunches are a must do every now and then and there are plenty to choose from. I recently enjoyed the Sunday brunch at On the Waterfront in the Lodi Hotel and it was fantastic. Free flowing Moet all day and a great variety of delicious food. Brunches with booze start at about Rs4000 and are a great day out.

High Tea is a pleasant hangover from the English and no one does it better than The Imperial.  For Rs900 during the week and Rs1200 on the weekend you can dine like a old colonial! Finger sandwiches, smoked salmon and petit fours aplenty. Only disappointment is they use teabags not leaves which is a bit of a let down. It's a lovely experience though.

So there you have it a list of some good eating experiences in Delhi. The good news is the restaurant scene is exploding here and there are new options everyday so get out there and explore and enjoy.

C x


 

Nearly the end of the post.

Well it has been nearly a year since I have been on my blog - I have well and truly neglected my duties and as it so happens my time in Delhi is nearly at an end.

It has been a busy, stressful, happy, unhappy year... So much has happened that has made it memorable for good and bad reasons. There has been sickness, health, death, birth and travel. Lots of travel.

Some of the places we have ventured to this year include Australia (our annual pilgrimage home), Jaipur, Amritsar, Mumbai, Agra, Rishikesh, Mussorie, Ranthambore. Plus we went further afield and visited Dubai, Italy, Croatia.

I might do a quick recap on each place over the next couple of days and give my best bits!

Jaipur - I've been to Jaipur a bit over the four years and I still love visiting. My top things include:
stay at the Samode Haveli. It's not too far from everything, the rooms are huge and full of old world charm. The hotel restaurant has wonderful Indian food and the wine is very reasonably priced. Breakfast is served in an amazing room, painted intricately to keep you entertained over your coffee.

Visit the Jantar Mantar but get a guide as they make everything clear and easy to understand and make this a really interesting site. Take an elephant to the top of the Amber Fort and enjoy fantastic views on the way up while checking out the beautifully painted hathi's.

Eat lunch at Anokhi café - yum salads and pastas and fresh food. A nice break from Indian cuisine.

Get a copy of Love Jaipur by Fiona Caulfield as she has the best shopping tips in one easy guide. A trip to Old Jaipur is a must. As is a sunset visit to Nahargarh Fort, it's spectacular.

Amritsar - Amritsar has two wonderful things to do - Wagah Border and the Golden Temple. The Wagah Border is fantastic and a must see. It is a ceremonial event held every night at the border of Pakistan and India. It's a display of country pride, pomp and pageantry! The flags of each country are lowered simultaneously after much stomping shouting and yelling of HINDUSTAN/PAKISTAN!!!!! Foreigners have a special queue which is very welcome as we get a great view of the spectacle.

The Golden Temple is wind blowing. I had the great pleasure of travelling there with my sister. We visited late at night (9pm) and again for daybreak. When I first saw this beautiful building at night it took my breath away. It was as if it was floating and the reflection was spectacular. Luckily for us it was quiet and everything was closing up which made it additionally peaceful.

The morning visit gave the Temple a new light. Luckily my sister encouraged the early morning visit... I was happy to stay in bed! It was truly lovely in the morning, chanting, prayers and again not many people. We visited the huge kitchen, ate fresh chappati and it was wonderful. It will come with me as one of my fondest memories.

Ranthambore Tiger Hunt!
We took the kids to Ranthambore National Park in March to see some tigers. We took Second class AC (2AC) train on the Saturday morning from Nizamuddin to Ranthambore. The train left at a reasonable hour and took about 5 hours. The train was great, no issues at all. There was plenty of space for the kids to sleep, read, eat or watch the iPad. It was a very easy way to travel this distance.

We stayed at Khem Villas which was a very lovely property and they arranged pick up from the station. At Khem we had our own little cottage so it ensured ultimate privacy and the kids could make a bit of noise without us being too self conscious. Khem also had amazing grounds. We went for nice walks, sat around the campfire at night, swapped tiger stories and ate good food. The gin and tonic's were nice too!

You organise your safari's separately. I took our four year old but I wouldn't recommend it for anyone younger than this. You have to be quiet on the hunts and sit still which every little person has trouble doing. However we had a great safari. We saw lots of deer, birds, peacocks, a crocodile and one beautiful tigeress. It was amazing.

In the afternoon the hotel let us use their jeep and a driver and we took our 15 mth old and 4 year old into the national park, but not on an official safari. We drove around, went to the Fort and had a lovely trip. Very casual and easy for the kids, although the walk to the Fort is steep and riddled with monkeys.

I highly recommend this trip - it was a winner!

 

 

Agra - So we could 't leave Delhi without taking the kids to the Taj Mahal. Tom and I have been a few times each before but I really wanted to the kids to go and have a pic if front of India's icon. We decided to splash out and stay at the Oberoi. It is a swanky property with lovely views of the Taj from your balcony. Although jury is still out on whether it is worth the prices they charge!

 

From Delhi we took the relatively new freeway through Noida and on to Agra. It is a very easy drive and very quick compared to the long rode before the freeway opened. All in all it took about 2,5 hours on the way down there. My advice on this one is you don't really need to spend the night in Agra, unless you are particularly driven to see the Taj at sun up or sun down. Once you visit the Taj and the Agra Fort you can easily wind your way back to Delhi in one day. It will be long but it's doable.

However we did stay, we saw the Taj, the kids got their cheeks pinched and photos clicked by Indian tourists and we then took refuge back at the hotel and hit the amazing pool. It was a very nice respite from the dusty streets of Agra.

In the past I have visited the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikhri in addition to the Taj and both are worth a visit if you have the time.

Rishikesh and Mussorie
Our most recent trip was over the Diwali weekend to Rishikesh and Mussorie.

We flew into Dehradun and took a taxi to Rishikesh to the Glasshouse on the Ganges, where we stayed for 3 nights. The taxi drive took about 1 hour (even though everyone told us 2 it really isn't that far). The Ganges is spectacular, the hills amazing and the air fresh. The hotel option was ok but our friends stayed at a river camp and if you can bear the thought of drop toilets and cold showers this is a great option. With our little ones we thought the accommodation would be better but not sure ...... I'd like to try the other to compare.

Either way watching and listening to the river make its way through the hills is amazing! I loved it and was so glad to see the Ganga! We made a trip into Rishikesh at 5 pm to see the Ganga Aarti which was good. Rishikesh is disappointingly dirty and doesn't feel particularly spiritual to me but it was nice to hear the chanting and watch the candles float down the river. Kids thought it was fun.

Then it was onto Mussorie..... well what a drive!!!!It took about 3 hours from Rishikesh to Mussorie and the last hour is winding road all the way to the top. The kids were great on the way up (not on the way down) but it is a pretty incredible feeling ascending to the mountain top and into the clouds.

The architecture is also amazing..... the thought of bringing everything up to the mountain to build a property sounds awful and difficult but some lovely places have been constructed.

We stayed at two different places over the two nights. First we tried The Amber which is a lovely small hotel with magnificent views of the hills. The Amber has a really lovely feel and the kids loved the playground and The Company Garden which is a short walk down the hill.

The second night we went to the new swanky JW Marriott. It only opened a month ago and is very different from The Amber. It is big and 5 star, so which you choose really depends on what you are after. The food at the Marriott was lovely and there was lots of space for the kids to run around. There was also a pretty cool kids club. One of my favourite things about the Marriott was at 4.30pm they set up games on the lawns, had bbq'ed corn cobs, masala chai and cake and you could play with the kids, meet other guests and enjoy the beautiful fresh air of Mussorie.

 

The only thing to be prepared for is the cold and the inevitable vomiting on the way down the mountain if you have travel sick kids.

So that is it for our 2014 travel around India - with Delhi as our base. Next we move base camp to Mumbai and start new adventures from there!

 

Let's catch up....

December is here and I have neglected my duties.... my poor blog has had no action since May so here I go in trying to update on my life a little.

With May obviously came the heat and it was very very hot! It was regularly 45 degrees and only dipping to mid 30's over night. This is my third summer in Delhi so kind of getting used to the prickly heat that comes with summer and the suffocating feeling that comes with a sunrise. It is a tough time, especially with two little people who are forced to deal with some serious cabin fever! But we didn't have to wait too long for a break....with June came a trip to France and Albania.

It was a lovely three week break and a completely different weather experience. Rainy, cold and overcast most of the time in France and then beautiful low 30's in Albania. How the trip went is another post but let's say travelling with kids is hard work. They get sick, tired and don't sleep that well - especially when they can't get out and run around too much. So it was lovely to get out of Delhi, breath clean air and eat amazing food but it certainly wasn't easy......

On return to Delhi I started work again, just part time, but it is great to be back at the desk and I am really enjoying it. Some dear friends moved home (or somewhere else) over the summer following the end of their posting so that was very sad...... I still miss them months later. The downside of expat life I guess.

However on the flipside,expat life comes with lots of interesting holidays! In August we headed to Singapore and Batu Batu island. Now this holiday was amazing!!!! Perfect. Batu Batu Island is wicked and everyone should look it up and plan a holiday there. It isn't cheap but it is worth every cent! Singapore was also great as Mum and Dad came up and stayed for a week and my best friend was there from Melbourne. It really was a lovely way to spend a couple of weeks.

Happy and revitalized, we returned to Delhi and were head long into the infamous Monsoon season, it was a cracker! Rain rain rain..... more rain..... It was probably the longest monsoon we have enjoyed since I have arrived in Delhi. I love monsoon but it plays havoc with traffic and going anywhere can take hours.

Then of course it is Dengue season, were we spend every waking minute petrified of those little mossies with white legs! This year I was so scared that it would strike one of the kids but thankfully we managed to avoid it (touch wood). Sadly lots of people I know succumbed to dengue and it sounded hideous.

Now the weather is much milder and we have enjoyed cool nights, Diwali and now we are into Winter... a lovely time of year bar the hazardous air quality! It's hilarious but true, this place revolves around the weather!!! In all these seasons lots has been happening and might do separate write ups on a few things over the next couple of days.

But for now, I'm looking forward to my second Delhi Christmas and investigating a little trip to the snow. Let's see .....

Mum's the word.... on Mum's day

Mother's Day - the little wee celebration of Mum's everywhere. I never gave Mother's Day the credit it deserved, until I was a Mother and realised it is quite nice to celebrate. Sorry Mum!

I am not talking big gifts, as I really don't think Mother's Day is about gifts, but just a little appreciation - a card, a phone call, a sleep in - that's what we're after. Since my children can't use a phone, and are incapable of sleeping in, I got the card.

So roll around Mother's Day 2013. This year I am a Mum of two little barbiloots. One that is hitting her stride and is hilarious and adorable and the other, pretty fresh and getting his head around solids and sleeping and still pretty darn adorable. Luckily they have a Dad who did them proud this year. It was a gorgeous day. My card was beautiful, nicely homemade, as was my coffee and toast in bed.

Then it was time for breakfast!

Breakfast location of choice was at the Leela Palace Chanakyapuri.

First off there is walking in to this amazing OTT hotel. Our 2 and 7/8 year old walked in and just said 'WOW, look at this princess room' and how right she is - shining gold and silver everywhere, beautiful fresh flowers and immaculate staff. She was pretty pumped by this stage.

The lobby of the Leela

 

We walked to Qube restaurant and Soph saw the muffins and fruits and knew it was going to be a good morning, plus she had some new friends coming.

I ordered the eggs benedict, my husband a masala dosa and Soph's pancakes. All of it was delicious. Then we hit the buffet - fresh prosciutto, fresh honeycomb, muffins, pastries, fruits, freshly squeezed juices, yoghurts, cereals - it's all there. We had a really lovely morning and the staff were lovely. Cost of breakkie is about Rs1100 for adults (inc taxes) ($A20) and this gives you the lovely buffet breakfast, plus an order from the a la carte menu (Sophie wasn't charged). The Leela was very happy to have our three families there and had ample highchairs for us to use if needed.

In the afternoon I drove myself (yes drove myself) back to the Leela for my afternoon Mother's Day treat. A 90 minute hot stone massage. I think this is one of the best presents to give a Mum - particularly a new one - space (in a fancy 5 star lavish hotel). It is not cheap (Rs6500 or $A130) (by Indian standards) but sometimes you just have to spoil yourself.

The Espa at the Leela is luxe - beautifully appointed and a haven from this crazy place. Walking in is instantly calming, as is the ginger and lemon drink and cold towel you get when you arrive.

The hot stone massage was a lot more hard core than I had bargained on. The sweet little Nepalese girl turned into an angry young lady once she hit my back. I was stretched and pulled to loosen myself up and then coated in oil and rubbed with hot stones. It was amazing, painful but afterwards felt pretty great. 90 minutes was the perfect amount of time, I felt like I was relaxed and thoroughly enjoyed the break.



Espa bathroom

Espa waiting area

Then it was time to hit the traffic, head home to my babies, ring our wonderful mum's, before being ready for another night of broken sleep!

Ahh motherhood :)

Summer lovin'

Welcome to summer Delhi.

It's hot, really hot but I'm still wearing jeans. I know it's going to get hotter and I want a buffer in place. I have 4 weeks until I'm escaping for a couple of weeks, then back into the furnace. The light at the end of the tunnel will get me through these early hot days.

This is my third delhi summer, I can't believe it, my third. When I think about it like that the time has actually flown and I have survived when, at the beginning of the season, I'm unsure if I'll make it through with my sanity. Of course I live a charmed life of AC most of the day, either in the house or car, but still if I want to bitch about it I will. It's really hot, all the time. ALL the time.

At the beginning of summer it is the cabin fever that gets you first...what the hell am I going to do with a toddler (and now a baby) for 3 long months..... Swim..... Swim..... Yes I have access to a pool, yes I'm lucky.

My family room is my sanctuary and each day over 40 degrees it just gets that little bit cosier and I get lazier. Last year I worked and it wasn't so bad (looking back on it) being occupied all day in an AC office leaving Mary to entertain Soph. However this year it is a shared problem..... And given baby's don't generally dig 45 degrees I think I'll be inside a bit.

So what's to do.

Here's my list of things to keep us all entertained over summer:

- ice skating in Gurgaon
- Stellar children's museum in Gurgaon
- walk aimlessly around a couple of malls
- plan a trip north, maybe Musoorie?
- swim.... Swim.... Swim
- make cookies, cakes and playdoh with toddler
- movies
- eat lots of mangoes
- rinse and repeat

Bring it on summer, after this one there is only one more to go on the sub continent..... I can do it. Yes I can!

Take me to the Second Floor

I discovered Second Floor Studio in Khan Market a little while ago. It is pretty much opposite Amici Italian restaurant, through a narrow doorway and up a couple of flights of stairs. You'll know it when you reach it - clean, white finish with stylish black font declaring its name on the windows.

Inside is some of the most beautiful stuff I have found in Delhi - stunning cushions, scarves, mirrors, camera cases and cute Indian collectibles. It also stocks my favourite En Inde jewellery. Other brands that I have discovered are Joli Joli and Olivia Das.

But then...... I discovered their Shahpur Jat store - AMAZING!!

This store is incredible. It specialises in interiors and I wanted everything. You must pay it a visit when you are here to see the candelabras, rajasthani busts, wall hangings, pictures, tables......

It is on the pricey side but sometimes you need a treat! On my most recent visit I bought a very cool steel thali platter and super cool key rings. I will be back again and again to stock up my house and clog up my wardrobes!



Interior of Second Floor Studio Khan Market

 



Scarf anyone? Khan Market

Cute camera pouches Khan Market